Go Beyond NY: A Quick Trip to Norway
Its all about the views (and fjords and hikes)
View from the Stordfjord Hotel at 10:30pm!
Norway has always been on my bucket list, but somehow just seemed too daunting a trip to figure out. I always like to split my vacation in halves – country and city, airbnb and hotel. So when I was planning a family trip to visit my daughter who did her junior year abroad in Copenhagen, Norway came right back on my radar. I quickly consulted with a few friends and did a lot of research. They all endorsed the timing – May is basically the shoulder season. Aside from the weather being perfect, there are no crowds, and the days are almost 18 hours long! And because the picture-perfect, snow- capped mountains are thawing, waterfalls are gushing everywhere.
First, a disclaimer: I’m going to do my best here, but words cannot describe Norway’s nature. Even our cameras had trouble capturing the sheer magnitude of what we saw. Every single hour of every single day was singularly amazing. From exhilarating hikes to serene fjord cruises to the majestic drives from place to place – our itinerary was an unforgettable experience.
Since we had already booked our tickets in and out of Copenhagen using miles, we had little wiggle room to make our trip longer. This left three full days and two half days for Norway. Here's what we were able to fit in:
DAY 1: SETTLING IN
On a rainy Tuesday afternoon, we arrived in Alesund, ready for our adventure. After picking up our electric rental car, we made a quick stop at Naturkompaniet Ålesund to gear up with a few overlooked hiking essentials. Our destination for the day was the Storfjord Hotel in Skodje, just a 45-minute drive away. We settled into our luxurious but cozy accommodations and indulged in the jacuzzi and sauna, then played cards over negronis before heading to dinner. Another good reason for going off season? The hotel upgraded us. Hello, corner suite with the best view ever!
Constitution Day Parade in Valldal
Skageflå mountain top (left). Reinheimen National Park (right)
DAY 2: HIKE + CONSTITUTION DAY CELEBRATION + HIKE
We set off on a hike through the enchanting pine forest of Valde, which culminated with a view of a foggy fjord dotted with perfect little red houses. Then, we drove to the town of Valldal, where we were totally surprised to find ourselves in the middle of a parade. Turns out, we were there for Constitution Day, which celebrates Norway’s independence from Denmark and Sweden. Almost everyone in the village was wearing a Bunad, a traditional, intricately-designed folk costume made from colorful fabric and adorned with hand-sewn appliques unique to each region. Watching the parade against the backdrop of that breathtaking scenery was a moment none of us will ever forget.
Next, we met up with our guide, Britt, who drove us to a trailhead in Reinheimen Nasjonalpark. The rain had let up, so we were able to start our hike towards Muldalsfossen (Mudal Falls). After a rough hour of steep terrain, we stumbled upon an abandoned farm with awe-inspiring views of Tafjorden. (Tafjorden is an inner branch of the larger fjord and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.) Another half hour later, we reached the majestic falls. At 650 feet, Muldalsfossen is one of the tallest single-drop waterfalls in Norway. I cannot emphasize enough how the extraordinary views left us speechless throughout the whole day.
Britt treated us to hot chocolate and reindeer jerky, a well-deserved snack and a tradition in the area. Plus, in honor of Constitution Day, she gave us each a flag and told us to shout “Hipp Hipp Hurra!” just like the locals. When in Norway!
We returned to the hotel for more jacuzzi, sauna, cards, cocktails and dinner. Towards the end of our meal, I noticed the sun casting rays on the mountain outside the window. I checked my watch – it was already 10:30 pm! It honestly felt as though we had lived two full days in the space of one.
No one but us, kayaking in the Tafjorden
DAY 3: TAFJORD KAYAKING AND SCENIC DRIVE TO OYE
We packed up the car and headed back to Tafjord to meet Britt for kayaking. It was hard to imagine how we could top a day like yesterday. Well, how about putting on a dry suit (essentially a very comfortable space suit) and having a fjord all to yourself on a clear, sunny day? Not to sound like my 19-year old but...it was sick. Sick! And we were literally the only ones out there. Gliding through the water, we took in gushing waterfalls and the picturesque Trafjord Harbor. Our hotel had packed us ham and cheese sandwiches, which we ate on the kayak dock.
Another perfect day, yet we still had 10 more hours of daylight to go. It then hit us that each day in Norway is really like two. Brilliant!
After this aha moment, we got back in the car to drive to Oye, which included a 30-minute ferry and a journey through Norangsdalen, a road renowned for its awe-inspiring landscapes. Indeed, the ride was nonstop “Wow!” “Holy #$&%!” and “Stop now for a photo!” It felt like we were on another planet. And, again, we were literally the only ones on the road! We ended the day with a small afternoon hike in Oye, exploring the Lisjerunda trail, before an awesome meal at Hotel Union Oye, where we parked for the night.
Ljøen viewpoint, one of the many times where we stopped to take a photo
DAY 4: GEIRANGER, MORE UNFORGETTABLE LANDSCAPES AND A BIKE RIDE
Taking a ferry from Hellesylt, we set off on an hour-long scenic ride. Yes, more jaw-dropping fjord and mountain views. In Geiranger, we hopped on a rib boat, which dropped us off at the base of Skageflå mountain. The hiking trail was steep and a little tricky, but those vistas of totally untouched beauty were worth it. At the peak, our guide, Anniken shared brown cheese and strawberry jam with us, another traditional local snack. Once we were down at the base the rib boat picked us up, and because the captain didn’t have other passengers, she took us on an extra long ride back, zipping in and out of waterfalls. Sick!
On the ferry between Hellesylt and Geiranger
Back in Geiranger, we had lunch at a local fish shop that only served fish cakes, apparently a favorite of Norwegian children. And, as if the day couldn’t get more exciting, we found ourselves along Road 63, which had just opened that morning for the season. We were treated to mind-blowing views of the glaciers. I have never seen so much snow in my life.
Upon returning to Oye, it was still bright, so we set out for a bike ride along the Hjorunfjord river before dinner. Another super long, super perfect day!
DAY 5: GOODBYE AND A SCENIC FERRY RIDE
We really, really didn’t want to leave Norway. Like, ever. But we had to head to the airport. As it turned out, the ferry back through the Hjorunfjord was not running, so we took an alternative route through Stord Fjord, allowing us to soak in more views and enjoy the country’s captivating beauty one last time.
Takk Norge!
Another photo op and soaking up the beauty on the last ferry ride.